Posted by on Jun 2, 2012 in | 0 comments

Written for QANTAS Travel Insider – May 2012 (Original Article)

Belleville, in the heart of Paris’ popular 19th arrondissement (between Republique and the Buttes Chaumont and bordering on the 11th, 20th and 10th), is the City of Light’s other Chinatown, after the 13th arrondissement – but much cooler. It’s the Paris equivalent of Sydney’s Marrickville with Asian cuisine on offer for all occasions – and open all hours.

Hawaienne – 15 Rue Louis Bonnet +33 (1) 4357 1564.

This is where Paris meets Vietnam. The clientele is half Asian, half French; the walls are Vietnamese décor, but the tablecloths are red and they play jazz. It’s cosy but not poky, and always full. As well as serving the best phở (Vietnamese noodle soup) in Belleville, they do the meanest and freshest rice paper roll (rouleau de printemps) in town. The loc lac (sautéed beef with rice) is another specialty. To be washed down with a Tsing Tao beer.

Tin Tin – 17 Rue Louis Bonnet. +33 (1) 4355 5013.

You can order both Vietnamese and Chinese dishes from this family friendly restaurant. Their sauces are always exceptionally tasty and the bo bun (beef rice vermicelli) and nems (spring rolls) are succulent.

Asahi – 36 Rue de Belleville. +33 (1) 4358 7827.

For impressively fresh sushi, sashimi, maki and yakitori. Must tries are the gyoza and sashimi mixes. If alone, grab a window seat and an Asahi beer while people-watching up and down Rue de Belleville.

Restaurant Lao Siam – 49 Rue de Belleville. +33 (1) 4040 0968.

If you have a hunger for money bags or peanut sauce, this Thai restaurant is good and always buzzy. It’s pricier than its Vietnamese cousins, but still not tourist prices and you’ll be comfortable to settle in for a few courses.

Hoa Hung – 14 Bis Rue Louis Bonnet. +33 (1) 4338 4002.

If you’ve never tasted a Vietnamese sandwich, you’re in for a treat at this takeaway. Inside half a baguette is your choice of beef, pork or chicken (cooked on a skewer) with masses of carrot, coriander, cucumber, chili (specify sans piments if you don’t like it hot), onion, soy sauce and mayonnaise. Delicious and addictive. And less than Euros3. Walk 10 minutes downhill to eat it by the Canal St Martin.

Pho Dong Tam (The Panda of Belleville) – 16 Rue Louis Bonnet. +33 (1) 4338 2574.

If you want to sit while munching your Vietnamese sandwich. There’s also a fuller menu with Vietnamese crepes, phở and bubble tea. Being Paris, you can also buy a croissant.

Rouleau de Printemps – 42 Rue de Tourtille. + 33 (1) 4636 9895.

This laneway restaurant is a favourite for many Parisians. Expect to share a tiny table with strangers and don’t go if you’re in a hurry. The ravioli and vapor dishes are delicate and delicious for unbeatable prices. Order a pot of tea or bottle of rosé to share with your neighbours to make the most of the wait.

Read more…